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Saigon, the former capital of South Viet-Nam, is famous for its colonial architecture, tree-lined boulevards, and exciting bustling nightlife.

The French laid out Saigon's broad, tree-lined boulevards and erected imposing villas and public buildings like the romantic Hotel de Ville (now the seat of the People's Committee), Notre Dame Cathedral, and the central Ben Thanh Market.

Within the teeming metropolis are the timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include the Giac Lam Pagoda, the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, Reunification Hall, Cholon market and the former US embassy, scene of such havoc during the 1975 evacuations.

The juxtaposition of past and present is more visible here than any- where else in Vietnam. Gleaming new skyscrapers tower above lavish French colonial villas. Imposing Soviet-style facades stand beside ancient pagodas. Women in traditional dress chat on mobile phones, while old cyclo pedicab jostle for space with brand-new BMWs.

Ho Chi Minh boasts a range of nightlife that's expanding in direct proportion to the number of foreigners hitting town. Bars and pubs abound, and an increasing number of them now feature live music to pull the crowds - normally either Filippino or local covers bands, who play safe pop-rock sets that lean heavily on Creedence Clearwater and the Eagles. Home grown talent is on display in Cong Vien Van Hoa Park, on Cach Mang Thang Tam, and Son Tra Park, on Nguyen Thai Hoc, where Vietnamese crooners in chintzy cocktail dresses and cockatoo hairstyles belt out Western and Vietnamese pop tunes to largely local audiences.

What hasn't changed is Ho Chi Minh City's commercial zeal. A stroll along Dong Khoi Street will take you past colonial-era landmarks and dozens of interesting new boutiques. Then plunge into the covered Ben Thanh Market, where vendors offer everything from fruit and fresh-cut flowers to traditional handicrafts to imported electronics and cosmetics. Or head for Cholon, the city's ancient China Town. Here you will find a fascinating maze of narrow lanes, bustling markets and flamboyantly colourful Chinese pagodas.

When they're not working, Ho Chi Minh City's residents are having fun. Food is a highlight here. The city is packed with eateries, ranging from simple sidewalk stalls to five-star hotel dining rooms. And following City is full of places to see and be seen.

 Central Ho Chi Minh City is the place to be on Sunday and holiday nights. The streets are jam-packed with young locals cruising the town on bicycles and motorbikes, out to see and be seen. The Municipal Theatre area is the hub for young hipsters. Entertainment ranges from disco and karaoke in the larger hotels, loud Western music in bars such as the Hard Rock Cafe, dancing at the Rex Hotel or experiencing traditional Vietnamese music at the Conservatory of Music. Most forms of entertainment can be found in downtown Ho Chi Minh City along Mac Thi Buoi Street.

Ho Chi Minh City never sleeps. Everywhere you look there is colour and movement. Vendors engulfed in bright bubbles of balloons or pushing carts heaped with wares; flocks of schoolgirls on bicycles, their traditional white ao dai tunics fluttering in the breeze; cranes spinning high overhead as workers put the finishing touches on newly-risen office towers.

It seems that everyone is busy, buying, selling, studying, and building. You'll find yourself swept up by the city's enthusiasm. Ho Chi Minh City is a shopper's paradise, with trendy new boutiques and modern shopping centres just steps away from traditional open-air markets.